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You might like to share the name of the battery, type and look for a serial number, anything to assist identify it. Then we could attempt to speak with the manufacturer, learn exactly what type of innovation. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not give information of the type of water you used.
I would think your battery has actually lost many of the active product from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt examining the acid SG. Vehicle batteries like to be charged at simply a number of amps, for a couple of days after being diminished.
( If you think in fairies, attempt some sort of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not sure the precise model, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the car. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for drip charging, it does manage the existing output to the needs of the battery.
I believe it to be a very soft water treated with fluoride. Actually you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually discovered that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Car Components as their brand name. They presently offer a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I have actually now read that numerous makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Automobile Parts due to the fact that no one mfg can produce enough to provide them - how to recondition a dead battery. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US region. Johnson Controls ought to have it's name on the battery in concern. Likewise I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I might make a job out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is precisely why we are talking about batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a real report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, and so on.
What I would be interested in is to understand what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is reasonably breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (battery reconditioning com).
Count the number of times you flex and straighten prior to it snaps. I have done this myself many times. Antimony fails well prior to calcium. The distinction is about 3 times. If the producer used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be extremely surprised. The separators are really crucial elements.
You might like to ascertain if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously essential (reconditioning old battery). I think you will find the grids corroded away in locations and active material has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been detached for a very long time. A sign of grid deterioration. I question you will find more than an irrelevant quantity of sulfate. I live in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply learnt that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to remedy this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will go into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is offered off as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have happened by now. If the smell of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize cleansed water - in an emergency, tap water. Hi Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (clearly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of exploring with it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply believed it interesting and wan na share with you men. Afdhal - Yes. I made up different suspensions based on both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixtures simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the trick is to include it just after the battery charged up until it gassing intensely, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Giving it a possibility convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active surface area, decreasing internal impedance.
Yup, the disadvantage of it is that it only can be usage as soon as, but hey, it's better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a variety of exclusive emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. The majority of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how do you recondition a battery.
I had a different objective - how do you recondition a car battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete waste of time & is even harmful to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount specified by the poster must have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with lid, add 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried sodium sulfate? I once make a little battery out of little 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when besides HSO4 being utilized, however the result is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, also, the plates seems to be worn down quite quickly. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is decreased. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however also the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would suggests much faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover cheap source of it yet. For this reason the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise tried using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (how to recondition a 12 volt battery). It has the highest brief peak discharge current.
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How Do You Recondition A Battery
How To Recondition A 12 Volt Battery