You might like to share the name of the battery, type and search for an identification number, anything to assist identify it. Then we might attempt to speak with the manufacturer, discover out precisely what type of technology. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not provide details of the kind of water you used.
I would think your battery has lost the majority of the active product from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt checking the acid SG. Car batteries like to be charged at just a number of amps, for a few days after being run down.
( If you believe in fairies, attempt some type of restoration.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not sure the specific design, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the car. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for drip charging, it does manage the existing output to the needs of the battery.
I believe it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. Actually you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually learnt that the Autocraft batteries are sold at Advance Car Components as their brand. They presently sell a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I have actually now check out that numerous producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Vehicle Components due to the fact that nobody mfg can produce sufficient to supply them - diy recondition car battery. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US area. Johnson Controls must have it's name on the battery in concern. Also I discovered out they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I may make a job out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is precisely why we are talking about batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Regrettably the report is not a real report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, etc.
What I would be interested in is to understand what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is relatively brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (do i need to charge car battery after battery recondition).
Count the variety of times you flex and straighten before it snaps. I have done this myself many times. Antimony fails well before calcium. The difference has to do with three times. If the maker utilized diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be very surprised. The separators are extremely essential parts.
You may like to establish if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That signifies overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously crucial (recondition battery). I suspect you will find the grids rusted away in locations and active product has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been disconnected for a long time. An indication of grid rust. I question you will discover more than an irrelevant amount of sulfate. I live in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i just discovered out that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will enter into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is emitted as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually happened by now. If the smell of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather use cleansed water - in an emergency, tap water. Hi How much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you guys ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (clearly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of explore it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Just believed it fascinating and wan na show you men. Afdhal - Yes. I made up numerous suspensions based upon both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixtures simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle at the bottom, the trick is to include it just after the battery charged up until it gassing vigorously, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Providing it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active surface location, minimizing internal impedance.
Yup, the disadvantage of it is that it only can be use once, but hey, it's much better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a number of proprietary emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. Many did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - high frequency battery reconditioning.
I had a various goal - battery reconditioning equipment. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete waste of time & is even harmful to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity stated by the poster must have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with cover, include 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried sodium sulfate? I when make a small battery out of small 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Naturally it gets weaker when besides HSO4 being used, however the outcome is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates seems to be eroded quite quickly. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is minimized. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would suggests faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover inexpensive source of it yet. For this reason the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (car battery reconditioning). It has the highest short peak discharge existing.