You might like to share the name of the battery, type and search for an identification number, anything to help determine it. Then we could attempt to talk with the manufacturer, discover out exactly what kind of technology. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not offer information of the kind of water you used.
I would guess your battery has lost most of the active product from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Try inspecting the acid SG. Auto batteries like to be charged at simply a number of amps, for a couple of days after being run down.
( If you think in fairies, try some kind of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not sure the exact model, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the vehicle. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for drip charging, it does control the existing output to the requirements of the battery.
I think it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually discovered that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Car Parts as their brand. They presently sell a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I've now read that numerous producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Automobile Components due to the fact that no one mfg can produce enough to provide them - how to recondition a car battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US region. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in question. Also I found out they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a task out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are discussing batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Sadly the report is not a real report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, and so on.
What I would be interested in is to understand what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition a car battery).
Count the number of times you flex and align prior to it snaps. I have actually done this myself often times. Antimony stops working well before calcium. The difference has to do with 3 times. If the maker utilized diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be very stunned. The separators are very important elements.
You might like to ascertain if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That is a sign of overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously essential (how to recondition a 12 volt battery). I suspect you will discover the grids rusted away in places and active material has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been disconnected for a long time. An indication of grid deterioration. I doubt you will discover more than an unimportant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i simply discovered that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will go into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is emitted as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have happened by now. If the smell of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize cleansed water - in an emergency, faucet water. Hi How much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (undoubtedly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of explore it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Just thought it interesting and wan na share with you men. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised various suspensions based on both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle at the bottom, the technique is to add it just after the battery charged up until it gassing strongly, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Providing it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active surface area, minimizing internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it only can be usage as soon as, but hey, it's much better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a variety of exclusive emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to recondition a wore out battery.
I had a different goal - how to restore a car battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even damaging to battery- the recommended level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity specified by the poster should have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with cover, include 15 ml water, shake till liquified then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted sodium sulfate? I when make a little battery out of little 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Naturally it gets weaker when besides HSO4 being utilized, however the outcome is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, also, the plates seems to be worn down quite quickly. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in complete charge-discharge cycle is decreased. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would implies much faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover cheap source of it yet. Hence the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also tried using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (test and recondition car battery). It has the greatest short peak discharge present.