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You may like to share the name of the battery, type and search for a serial number, anything to help recognize it. Then we could attempt to speak to the producer, discover out exactly what type of technology. Not all batteries are the same. You did not give details of the kind of water you utilized.
I would guess your battery has actually lost many of the active material from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Try inspecting the acid SG. Automobile batteries like to be charged at just a couple of amps, for a few days after being run down.
( If you think in fairies, try some type of rejuvenation.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Unsure the exact design, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the automobile. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for trickle charging, it does manage the present output to the requirements of the battery.
I believe it to be a very soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've discovered that the Autocraft batteries are offered at Advance Auto Parts as their brand name. They presently offer a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I have actually now read that numerous makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Car Components since no one mfg can produce sufficient to provide them - how to recondition a 12 volt battery. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US area. Johnson Controls ought to have it's name on the battery in concern. Also I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a job out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are talking about batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Sadly the report is not a real report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, etc.
What I would be interested in is to understand what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is reasonably breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition an old battery).
Count the number of times you flex and correct the alignment of prior to it snaps. I have done this myself sometimes. Antimony fails well prior to calcium. The difference is about three times. If the maker used diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be really shocked. The separators are very essential elements.
You may like to ascertain if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That signifies overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically important (how to restore a dead car battery). I presume you will discover the grids rusted away in places and active product has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been disconnected for a long time. A sign of grid rust. I question you will find more than an insignificant quantity of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i simply discovered out that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will go into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have occurred by now. If the smell of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work efficiently, they will bring on working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize cleansed water - in an emergency, tap water. Hey there How much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (clearly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of explore it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply believed it intriguing and wan na show you men. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised numerous suspensions based upon both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixtures just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle at the bottom, the technique is to add it just after the battery charged up until it gassing vigorously, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Offering it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering up the plates, increasing active area, decreasing internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it only can be use when, however hey, it's much better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a variety of exclusive emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. The majority of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to recondition any battery.
I had a various objective - reconditioning a battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even damaging to battery- the recommended level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount mentioned by the poster must have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a container with cover, add 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I when make a little battery out of little 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Naturally it gets weaker when besides HSO4 being used, however the outcome is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates seems to be deteriorated quite quick. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in full charge-discharge cycle is minimized. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would implies much faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover inexpensive source of it yet. For this reason the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also attempted using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (recondition a battery). It has the greatest short peak discharge current.
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