You might like to share the name of the battery, type and look for a serial number, anything to assist recognize it. Then we could try to speak to the manufacturer, find out exactly what kind of innovation. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not give information of the kind of water you used.
I would guess your battery has actually lost the majority of the active material from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt inspecting the acid SG. Automobile batteries like to be charged at simply a couple of amps, for a few days after being diminished.
( If you think in fairies, try some type of restoration.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Unsure the exact design, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the vehicle. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for trickle charging, it does manage the current output to the needs of the battery.
I believe it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually discovered out that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Auto Components as their brand name. They presently sell a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I have actually now check out that various manufacturers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Car Components due to the fact that no one mfg can produce adequate to provide them - battery recondition. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States region. Johnson Controls ought to have it's name on the battery in concern. Also I discovered out they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I might make a job out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are going over batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Sadly the report is not a real report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, and so on.
What I would have an interest in is to understand what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly fragile. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition an old battery).
Count the number of times you bend and correct before it snaps. I have actually done this myself sometimes. Antimony fails well prior to calcium. The distinction has to do with three times. If the maker utilized diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be really surprised. The separators are extremely crucial components.
You might like to establish if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That is an indication of overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously crucial (how to reconditioning car battery). I believe you will find the grids rusted away in places and active material has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been disconnected for a long time. An indication of grid deterioration. I question you will find more than an insignificant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply learnt that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will enter into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have happened by now. If the odor of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize purified water - in an emergency situation, faucet water. Hello How much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (obviously) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of explore it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply thought it interesting and wan na show you guys. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised numerous suspensions based upon both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle at the bottom, the technique is to add it just after the battery charged up until it gassing intensely, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, keeping the suspension. Providing it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active area, minimizing internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it only can be use as soon as, but hey, it's much better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a number of proprietary emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. Many did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to restore a car battery.
I had a different objective - how to recondition a dead car battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete wild-goose chase & is even harmful to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount mentioned by the poster should have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a container with lid, add 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried sodium sulfate? I once make a small battery out of little 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when besides HSO4 being used, however the outcome is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, also, the plates seems to be worn down rather quickly. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is reduced. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but also the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would suggests faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover cheap source of it yet. Hence the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (recondition your old battery). It has the greatest brief peak discharge existing.