You might like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find an identification number, anything to assist recognize it. Then we might attempt to talk to the producer, learn exactly what kind of technology. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not offer information of the type of water you utilized.
I would think your battery has lost the majority of the active material from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Try examining the acid SG. Auto batteries like to be charged at just a couple of amps, for a couple of days after being diminished.
( If you believe in fairies, attempt some sort of restoration.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not sure the exact model, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the automobile. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for trickle charging, it does manage the current output to the needs of the battery.
I believe it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've learnt that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Automobile Components as their brand name. They presently offer a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I have actually now read that numerous producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Vehicle Parts due to the fact that nobody mfg can produce adequate to provide them - reconditioning car battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US area. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in question. Likewise I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I might make a task out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are going over batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Sadly the report is not a true report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would be interested in is to understand what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is reasonably breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (battery reconditioning equipment).
Count the number of times you bend and align prior to it snaps. I have done this myself often times. Antimony stops working well prior to calcium. The distinction has to do with 3 times. If the producer used diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be very surprised. The separators are extremely essential components.
You may like to ascertain if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That is a sign of overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously important (how to reconditioning car battery). I think you will find the grids rusted away in places and active product has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been disconnected for a long period of time. An indication of grid rust. I question you will discover more than an insignificant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply learnt that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will go into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have happened by now. If the odor of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather use purified water - in an emergency, tap water. Hey there Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (obviously) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of exploring with it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply believed it interesting and wan na show you men. Afdhal - Yes. I made up numerous suspensions based upon both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixtures simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle at the bottom, the technique is to include it just after the battery charged up until it gassing vigorously, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Providing it a possibility convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, concealing the plates, increasing active surface area, lowering internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it only can be usage as soon as, but hey, it's better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a number of proprietary emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - reconditioning battery.
I had a different goal - test and recondition car battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete waste of time & is even damaging to battery- the recommended level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity stated by the poster should have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with cover, include 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried sodium sulfate? I once make a small battery out of little 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being used, but the outcome is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, also, the plates appears to be deteriorated rather quickly. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in full charge-discharge cycle is reduced. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would indicates faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find cheap source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise tried using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (recondition your old battery). It has the highest short peak discharge present.