You may like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find a serial number, anything to assist identify it. Then we could try to speak with the manufacturer, find out precisely what kind of innovation. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not provide information of the type of water you utilized.
I would guess your battery has actually lost the majority of the active material from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt examining the acid SG. Vehicle batteries like to be charged at just a number of amps, for a few days after being run down.
( If you think in fairies, attempt some kind of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Unsure the specific design, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the cars and truck. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for trickle charging, it does control the existing output to the requirements of the battery.
I believe it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've discovered out that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Vehicle Parts as their brand. They presently offer a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I have actually now check out that different makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Auto Components because nobody mfg can produce sufficient to supply them - recondition your old battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States region. Johnson Controls should have it's name on the battery in question. Also I found out they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a project out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are talking about batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Regrettably the report is not a real report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, and so on.
What I would be interested in is to know what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by ways of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is relatively fragile. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how do you recondition a car battery).
Count the variety of times you bend and straighten prior to it snaps. I have done this myself sometimes. Antimony fails well prior to calcium. The difference has to do with 3 times. If the producer used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be extremely shocked. The separators are extremely crucial components.
You may like to establish if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically important (how to reconditioning car battery). I believe you will discover the grids rusted away in places and active product has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been disconnected for a long time. An indication of grid rust. I doubt you will find more than an insignificant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i just found out that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will enter into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have happened by now. If the smell of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather use purified water - in an emergency, faucet water. Hello Just how much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (obviously) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of explore it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply thought it fascinating and wan na share with you people. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised various suspensions based upon both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixtures just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the trick is to add it simply after the battery charged up until it gassing strongly, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Providing it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering up the plates, increasing active surface area, lowering internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it just can be usage as soon as, however hey, it's better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a number of proprietary emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - what is battery reconditioning.
I had a various goal - how to recondition a 12 volt battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even hazardous to battery- the recommended level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount stated by the poster should have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with lid, add 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I as soon as make a small battery out of small 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when besides HSO4 being used, however the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, also, the plates seems to be worn down rather quick. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is lowered. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however also the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would indicates much faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover low-cost source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also tried using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (auto battery reconditioning). It has the greatest short peak discharge current.