You might like to share the name of the battery, type and look for a serial number, anything to assist identify it. Then we could attempt to talk with the maker, discover precisely what type of technology. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not give details of the type of water you used.
I would think your battery has actually lost most of the active product from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt examining the acid SG. Auto batteries like to be charged at simply a number of amps, for a few days after being run down.
( If you believe in fairies, try some sort of restoration.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not sure the precise model, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the car. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for trickle charging, it does manage the current output to the requirements of the battery.
I believe it to be a very soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually learnt that the Autocraft batteries are offered at Advance Car Components as their brand name. They currently sell a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I've now read that numerous makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Vehicle Components since nobody mfg can produce adequate to provide them - recondition your old battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States region. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in question. Also I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I might make a project out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are going over batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, and so on.
What I would have an interest in is to understand what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by ways of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition any battery).
Count the number of times you flex and straighten before it snaps. I have done this myself sometimes. Antimony stops working well prior to calcium. The distinction has to do with 3 times. If the producer utilized diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be extremely shocked. The separators are really important parts.
You might like to establish if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That is an indication of overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously important (battery reconditioning). I presume you will discover the grids corroded away in locations and active material has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been detached for a long time. A sign of grid deterioration. I question you will find more than an irrelevant quantity of sulfate. I live in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i just found out that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will enter into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually taken place by now. If the odor of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather use cleansed water - in an emergency situation, faucet water. Hi Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you guys ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (obviously) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of try out it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Just believed it intriguing and wan na share with you men. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised various suspensions based upon both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixes just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does calm down at the bottom, the trick is to add it just after the battery charged up till it gassing strongly, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Giving it a possibility convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering up the plates, increasing active area, reducing internal impedance.
Yup, the disadvantage of it is that it just can be usage once, however hey, it's much better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a number of proprietary emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to recondition any battery.
I had a various objective - auto battery reconditioning. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even harmful to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount mentioned by the poster needs to have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a container with cover, include 15 ml water, shake till liquified then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried sodium sulfate? I as soon as make a small battery out of small 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Naturally it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being utilized, but the outcome is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates appears to be eroded quite quick. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is decreased. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would indicates quicker charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find cheap source of it yet. Hence the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also attempted utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (test and recondition car battery). It has the highest short peak discharge present.