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You may like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find an identification number, anything to assist recognize it. Then we might try to speak to the maker, discover exactly what type of technology. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not offer information of the type of water you utilized.
I would think your battery has lost many of the active material from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt inspecting the acid SG. Auto batteries like to be charged at just a number of amps, for a few days after being run down.
( If you think in fairies, try some sort of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Unsure the specific design, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the automobile. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for trickle charging, it does control the current output to the needs of the battery.
I think it to be a very soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've learnt that the Autocraft batteries are offered at Advance Car Parts as their brand. They currently offer a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I've now check out that various manufacturers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Auto Parts due to the fact that no one mfg can produce adequate to provide them - recondition dead battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in question. Also I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I might make a job out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are discussing batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would have an interest in is to understand what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is reasonably brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition a battery at home).
Count the number of times you bend and align before it snaps. I have actually done this myself sometimes. Antimony stops working well prior to calcium. The distinction is about 3 times. If the producer utilized diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be extremely surprised. The separators are really essential components.
You might like to ascertain if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That signifies overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically essential (how to recondition a wore out battery). I presume you will find the grids corroded away in locations and active material has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been detached for a long time. A sign of grid corrosion. I doubt you will find more than an irrelevant amount of sulfate. I live in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply discovered out that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to remedy this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will go into option as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually happened by now. If the smell of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather use cleansed water - in an emergency, tap water. Hi Just how much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (undoubtedly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of explore it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Just believed it fascinating and wan na show you men. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised numerous suspensions based on both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixtures just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the trick is to add it simply after the battery charged up until it gassing vigorously, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Giving it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering up the plates, increasing active surface area, reducing internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it just can be usage as soon as, but hey, it's better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a variety of proprietary emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. Many did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to recondition a car battery.
I had a various objective - recondition old battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even hazardous to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity specified by the poster must have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with lid, add 15 ml water, shake till liquified then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried sodium sulfate? I when make a small battery out of small 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being utilized, however the outcome is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates seems to be deteriorated rather fast. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in complete charge-discharge cycle is decreased. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would implies much faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find inexpensive source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also tried using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (how to recondition a battery). It has the highest short peak discharge existing.
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How Do You Recondition A Battery
How To Recondition A 12 Volt Battery