You might like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find an identification number, anything to assist recognize it. Then we could attempt to speak to the maker, discover exactly what type of innovation. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not give details of the kind of water you used.
I would think your battery has lost the majority of the active material from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Try inspecting the acid SG. Auto batteries like to be charged at simply a number of amps, for a few days after being diminished.
( If you believe in fairies, attempt some type of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Unsure the precise design, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the vehicle. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for trickle charging, it does manage the existing output to the needs of the battery.
I think it to be a very soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually found out that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Automobile Parts as their brand. They currently sell a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I have actually now check out that different producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Auto Components because nobody mfg can produce sufficient to provide them - recondition a car battery. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States region. Johnson Controls should have it's name on the battery in question. Also I discovered they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a job out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are talking about batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Regrettably the report is not a true report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would have an interest in is to know what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (recondition dead battery).
Count the variety of times you flex and correct the alignment of prior to it snaps. I have done this myself often times. Antimony stops working well before calcium. The distinction is about three times. If the manufacturer used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be extremely stunned. The separators are really important elements.
You might like to ascertain if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That signifies overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously important (how to recondition a dead car battery). I think you will find the grids corroded away in locations and active material has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been disconnected for a long period of time. A sign of grid deterioration. I doubt you will discover more than an irrelevant quantity of sulfate. I live in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i simply discovered that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will enter into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is emitted as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have happened by now. If the smell of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize cleansed water - in an emergency, tap water. Hi Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you guys ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (undoubtedly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of try out it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Just believed it interesting and wan na show you people. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised various suspensions based on both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixtures just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle at the bottom, the trick is to add it simply after the battery charged up until it gassing strongly, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Offering it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, concealing the plates, increasing active surface location, minimizing internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it just can be usage when, however hey, it's much better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a variety of proprietary emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - test and recondition car battery.
I had a various objective - reconditioning old battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even damaging to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount specified by the poster needs to have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with cover, include 15 ml water, shake till liquified then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried salt sulfate? I once make a little battery out of small 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being utilized, but the outcome is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates appears to be worn down rather quick. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is decreased. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however also the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would indicates much faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover inexpensive source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also attempted using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (what is battery reconditioning). It has the greatest short peak discharge current.