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You may like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find an identification number, anything to help determine it. Then we might try to speak to the manufacturer, learn precisely what sort of innovation. Not all batteries are the same. You did not offer details of the type of water you utilized.
I would guess your battery has lost most of the active product from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Try inspecting the acid SG. Car batteries like to be charged at just a couple of amps, for a few days after being diminished.
( If you believe in fairies, attempt some type of restoration.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Uncertain the exact design, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the cars and truck. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for trickle charging, it does manage the present output to the requirements of the battery.
I believe it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've discovered that the Autocraft batteries are sold at Advance Automobile Parts as their brand. They currently sell a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I've now read that different manufacturers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Vehicle Parts because nobody mfg can produce enough to supply them - materials needed to recondition car battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US region. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in concern. Likewise I discovered they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I may make a job out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is precisely why we are talking about batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Sadly the report is not a real report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, and so on.
What I would be interested in is to know what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is relatively breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (recondition 12 volt battery).
Count the number of times you bend and align prior to it snaps. I have done this myself numerous times. Antimony fails well before calcium. The distinction is about 3 times. If the maker used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be really surprised. The separators are really important components.
You might like to determine if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically crucial (test and recondition car battery). I suspect you will find the grids corroded away in locations and active product has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been detached for a very long time. A sign of grid corrosion. I question you will discover more than an insignificant quantity of sulfate. I live in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply discovered that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will go into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is released as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually happened by now. If the odor of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather use cleansed water - in an emergency situation, tap water. Hello How much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (certainly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of try out it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Just thought it interesting and wan na show you people. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised various suspensions based upon both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixtures just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle at the bottom, the trick is to include it simply after the battery charged up until it gassing strongly, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Providing it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active area, lowering internal impedance.
Yup, the disadvantage of it is that it only can be usage as soon as, but hey, it's better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a number of exclusive emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. Many did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to recondition a dead battery.
I had a different objective - reconditioning old battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even damaging to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity stated by the poster needs to have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with lid, include 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted sodium sulfate? I as soon as make a small battery out of little 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Naturally it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being used, but the outcome is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, also, the plates appears to be eroded quite quickly. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in complete charge-discharge cycle is lowered. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would suggests much faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find cheap source of it yet. Hence the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise tried utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (how do you recondition a car battery). It has the highest short peak discharge present.
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