You may like to share the name of the battery, type and look for an identification number, anything to help recognize it. Then we might try to speak to the manufacturer, discover exactly what type of innovation. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not give information of the kind of water you used.
I would think your battery has actually lost the majority of the active material from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt checking the acid SG. Automobile batteries like to be charged at just a number of amps, for a couple of days after being diminished.
( If you believe in fairies, attempt some kind of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Uncertain the precise model, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the cars and truck. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for drip charging, it does manage the current output to the requirements of the battery.
I think it to be a very soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've discovered that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Car Components as their brand. They presently sell a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I have actually now read that numerous manufacturers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Auto Parts since no one mfg can produce enough to supply them - battery reconditioning equipment. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls ought to have it's name on the battery in concern. Likewise I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I might make a project out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are going over batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Regrettably the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, and so on.
What I would have an interest in is to understand what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (car battery reconditioning).
Count the number of times you bend and align before it snaps. I have done this myself lot of times. Antimony stops working well before calcium. The difference has to do with three times. If the manufacturer utilized diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be very surprised. The separators are extremely crucial elements.
You may like to ascertain if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically important (how to recondition a dead car battery). I suspect you will find the grids rusted away in locations and active material has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been detached for a long time. A sign of grid corrosion. I doubt you will find more than an irrelevant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i just discovered out that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will go into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is released as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have taken place by now. If the odor of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize cleansed water - in an emergency, tap water. Hello Just how much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you guys ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (obviously) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of experimenting with it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Just believed it fascinating and wan na show you people. Afdhal - Yes. I made up various suspensions based on both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixes just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the technique is to include it simply after the battery charged up until it gassing vigorously, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Giving it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active surface location, decreasing internal impedance.
Yup, the disadvantage of it is that it just can be usage when, but hey, it's much better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a number of exclusive emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. The majority of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - test and recondition car battery.
I had a various goal - how do you recondition a dead car battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total wild-goose chase & is even harmful to battery- the recommended level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount specified by the poster must have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a container with lid, add 15 ml water, shake till liquified then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted sodium sulfate? I once make a little battery out of little 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being used, but the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates seems to be worn down quite quick. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in complete charge-discharge cycle is minimized. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would suggests quicker charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find cheap source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also tried using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (how to recondition any battery). It has the greatest short peak discharge present.