You might like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find a serial number, anything to assist identify it. Then we might attempt to talk with the maker, discover precisely what type of technology. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not provide information of the kind of water you utilized.
I would think your battery has actually lost the majority of the active product from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt examining the acid SG. Car batteries like to be charged at just a couple of amps, for a couple of days after being diminished.
( If you think in fairies, attempt some kind of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Uncertain the specific model, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the car. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for drip charging, it does control the existing output to the needs of the battery.
I believe it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually discovered that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Auto Parts as their brand. They currently offer a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I have actually now read that different producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Vehicle Components since nobody mfg can produce sufficient to provide them - recondition your old battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in question. Also I found out they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a project out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are talking about batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Sadly the report is not a true report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would have an interest in is to understand what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by ways of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is relatively fragile. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (recondition your old battery).
Count the number of times you bend and straighten before it snaps. I have actually done this myself numerous times. Antimony stops working well prior to calcium. The difference has to do with three times. If the manufacturer used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be very stunned. The separators are extremely essential elements.
You may like to determine if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That is an indication of overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically important (recondition battery guide). I think you will find the grids corroded away in places and active material has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been detached for a long period of time. An indication of grid rust. I question you will find more than an unimportant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply learnt that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to remedy this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will enter into option as lead chloride. Then the chloride is emitted as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have taken place by now. If the odor of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work efficiently, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather use cleansed water - in an emergency situation, tap water. Hello How much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (certainly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of explore it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Simply believed it interesting and wan na share with you men. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised various suspensions based on both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the trick is to add it just after the battery charged up till it gassing vigorously, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Providing it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active area, reducing internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it just can be usage once, but hey, it's much better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a number of exclusive emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. The majority of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - recondition battery guide.
I had a various goal - battery reconditioning com. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even damaging to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount stated by the poster must have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with cover, add 15 ml water, shake till liquified then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I once make a small battery out of little 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when besides HSO4 being utilized, however the result is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates appears to be deteriorated rather fast. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is minimized. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but also the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would implies faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find cheap source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also tried using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (how to reconditioning car battery). It has the greatest short peak discharge current.