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You may like to share the name of the battery, type and search for a serial number, anything to assist determine it. Then we might attempt to speak to the maker, discover precisely what type of innovation. Not all batteries are the same. You did not give information of the kind of water you utilized.
I would think your battery has actually lost the majority of the active material from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Try inspecting the acid SG. Car batteries like to be charged at just a couple of amps, for a few days after being run down.
( If you think in fairies, attempt some kind of rejuvenation.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not sure the exact design, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the vehicle. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for drip charging, it does control the existing output to the needs of the battery.
I believe it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've discovered that the Autocraft batteries are sold at Advance Car Parts as their brand name. They presently sell a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I've now check out that various producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Car Components because nobody mfg can produce sufficient to provide them - materials needed to recondition car battery. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US region. Johnson Controls must have it's name on the battery in concern. Also I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I might make a job out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are going over batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a real report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, and so on.
What I would have an interest in is to understand what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by ways of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (battery reconditioning).
Count the number of times you bend and straighten prior to it snaps. I have actually done this myself often times. Antimony fails well before calcium. The difference is about three times. If the manufacturer used diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be really stunned. The separators are very essential parts.
You may like to determine if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That signifies overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously crucial (recondition your old battery). I presume you will discover the grids corroded away in places and active product has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been disconnected for a long period of time. An indication of grid rust. I question you will discover more than an insignificant quantity of sulfate. I live in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i just learnt that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will enter into option as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have occurred by now. If the odor of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work efficiently, they will bring on working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize cleansed water - in an emergency situation, faucet water. Hello Just how much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you guys ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (clearly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of explore it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Just believed it intriguing and wan na show you men. Afdhal - Yes. I made up various suspensions based on both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixtures just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the technique is to add it just after the battery charged up till it gassing strongly, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Giving it a possibility convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, concealing the plates, increasing active surface location, minimizing internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it only can be use once, however hey, it's better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a variety of exclusive emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - do i need to charge car battery after battery recondition.
I had a various objective - recondition 12 volt battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete waste of time & is even hazardous to battery- the recommended level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity stated by the poster needs to have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a container with cover, add 15 ml water, shake till liquified then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I once make a little battery out of small 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Naturally it gets weaker when besides HSO4 being utilized, however the outcome is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates appears to be eroded rather quick. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in complete charge-discharge cycle is reduced. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but also the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would indicates quicker charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover inexpensive source of it yet. For this reason the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (recondition battery). It has the greatest brief peak discharge current.
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How Do You Recondition A Battery
How To Recondition A 12 Volt Battery