You may like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find an identification number, anything to assist recognize it. Then we might attempt to speak to the maker, discover out exactly what sort of technology. Not all batteries are the same. You did not offer details of the type of water you utilized.
I would think your battery has lost the majority of the active product from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt checking the acid SG. Car batteries like to be charged at simply a couple of amps, for a few days after being diminished.
( If you think in fairies, attempt some kind of restoration.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not sure the precise design, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the cars and truck. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for drip charging, it does manage the present output to the needs of the battery.
I believe it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've learnt that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Vehicle Components as their brand name. They currently sell a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I've now read that various manufacturers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Auto Components since nobody mfg can produce sufficient to supply them - how to recondition a car battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States region. Johnson Controls should have it's name on the battery in question. Also I discovered they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a job out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are going over batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a real report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would be interested in is to know what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is reasonably breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (high frequency battery reconditioning).
Count the number of times you bend and correct prior to it snaps. I have done this myself numerous times. Antimony stops working well prior to calcium. The distinction is about 3 times. If the maker used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be really shocked. The separators are very essential parts.
You may like to establish if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously important (how to recondition an old battery). I presume you will find the grids rusted away in places and active material has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been detached for a long period of time. An indication of grid corrosion. I question you will discover more than an unimportant amount of sulfate. I live in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i just found out that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to remedy this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will go into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually taken place by now. If the smell of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather use cleansed water - in an emergency situation, tap water. Hello Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (undoubtedly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of experimenting with it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply thought it intriguing and wan na show you men. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised different suspensions based on both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixtures just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle at the bottom, the trick is to add it simply after the battery charged up till it gassing strongly, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Offering it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, concealing the plates, increasing active surface location, reducing internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it only can be use once, but hey, it's much better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a variety of exclusive emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. Many did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to recondition a wore out battery.
I had a different goal - how do you recondition a dead car battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even damaging to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity stated by the poster must have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with cover, include 15 ml water, shake till liquified then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried salt sulfate? I as soon as make a small battery out of little 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when besides HSO4 being utilized, however the result is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, also, the plates appears to be deteriorated quite quickly. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in complete charge-discharge cycle is lowered. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would suggests faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover inexpensive source of it yet. For this reason the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (reconditioning old battery). It has the greatest brief peak discharge current.