You might like to share the name of the battery, type and look for an identification number, anything to assist recognize it. Then we might try to speak with the maker, find out exactly what kind of technology. Not all batteries are the same. You did not offer information of the kind of water you used.
I would think your battery has actually lost the majority of the active product from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt inspecting the acid SG. Auto batteries like to be charged at just a number of amps, for a couple of days after being diminished.
( If you believe in fairies, try some kind of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Unsure the exact design, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the car. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for trickle charging, it does manage the current output to the requirements of the battery.
I think it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've discovered that the Autocraft batteries are offered at Advance Auto Components as their brand name. They presently offer a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I've now read that numerous makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Auto Components because no one mfg can produce sufficient to supply them - recondition 12 volt battery. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US area. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in question. Likewise I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a job out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is precisely why we are talking about batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Regrettably the report is not a true report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, etc.
What I would be interested in is to know what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition an old battery).
Count the variety of times you flex and straighten before it snaps. I have done this myself often times. Antimony stops working well before calcium. The difference is about 3 times. If the maker utilized diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be very surprised. The separators are very crucial components.
You may like to determine if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That is a sign of overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically crucial (how to recondition a battery). I presume you will discover the grids rusted away in locations and active material has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been detached for a long period of time. A sign of grid rust. I doubt you will find more than an irrelevant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply learnt that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will go into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually occurred by now. If the odor of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work efficiently, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize purified water - in an emergency, tap water. Hey there How much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (certainly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of explore it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply believed it interesting and wan na share with you people. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised numerous suspensions based upon both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the trick is to include it just after the battery charged up till it gassing strongly, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, keeping the suspension. Offering it a possibility convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active area, reducing internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it only can be usage as soon as, however hey, it's better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a number of exclusive emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how do you recondition a battery.
I had a different objective - recondition car battery for sale. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even damaging to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity stated by the poster should have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with lid, include 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I as soon as make a small battery out of little 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being utilized, but the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, also, the plates seems to be worn down quite quick. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is reduced. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however also the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would implies much faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover inexpensive source of it yet. Hence the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (recondition car battery for sale). It has the highest brief peak discharge current.