You might like to share the name of the battery, type and search for a serial number, anything to assist identify it. Then we might try to speak with the producer, learn exactly what type of technology. Not all batteries are the same. You did not offer details of the kind of water you utilized.
I would guess your battery has actually lost many of the active material from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt examining the acid SG. Auto batteries like to be charged at just a number of amps, for a couple of days after being run down.
( If you believe in fairies, attempt some type of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Uncertain the exact model, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the automobile. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for trickle charging, it does manage the current output to the needs of the battery.
I think it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. Actually you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually learnt that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Auto Parts as their brand. They presently offer a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I have actually now read that different manufacturers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Auto Components because nobody mfg can produce sufficient to supply them - battery reconditioning equipment. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States region. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in question. Likewise I discovered they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I might make a job out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are going over batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a real report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would be interested in is to understand what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how do you recondition a dead battery).
Count the variety of times you flex and correct the alignment of prior to it snaps. I have done this myself often times. Antimony stops working well before calcium. The distinction has to do with 3 times. If the manufacturer utilized diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be extremely surprised. The separators are extremely crucial components.
You may like to ascertain if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That is an indication of overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically important (battery reconditioning equipment). I believe you will discover the grids corroded away in places and active product has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been detached for a very long time. An indication of grid rust. I doubt you will find more than an insignificant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i just learnt that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to remedy this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will go into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is provided off as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have taken place by now. If the odor of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work efficiently, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize purified water - in an emergency situation, faucet water. Hello Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (certainly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of explore it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply thought it fascinating and wan na share with you men. Afdhal - Yes. I made up different suspensions based on both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixtures simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the technique is to include it just after the battery charged up till it gassing vigorously, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Giving it a possibility convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active surface area, reducing internal impedance.
Yup, the disadvantage of it is that it just can be usage as soon as, however hey, it's much better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a variety of proprietary emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. Many did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to restore a dead car battery.
I had a different goal - how to recondition a battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete wild-goose chase & is even hazardous to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount stated by the poster needs to have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with cover, include 15 ml water, shake till liquified then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I as soon as make a little battery out of little 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when besides HSO4 being utilized, but the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates appears to be worn down quite quick. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is lowered. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would implies much faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover inexpensive source of it yet. For this reason the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (automotive battery reconditioning). It has the greatest short peak discharge current.