You may like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find a serial number, anything to assist recognize it. Then we might try to talk to the maker, find out precisely what sort of technology. Not all batteries are the same. You did not offer information of the type of water you utilized.
I would guess your battery has lost the majority of the active material from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt checking the acid SG. Auto batteries like to be charged at just a couple of amps, for a couple of days after being run down.
( If you think in fairies, try some kind of rejuvenation.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not exactly sure the exact model, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the automobile. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for trickle charging, it does manage the current output to the requirements of the battery.
I think it to be a very soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've discovered that the Autocraft batteries are sold at Advance Automobile Components as their brand name. They presently sell a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I've now read that numerous manufacturers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Automobile Components due to the fact that no one mfg can produce sufficient to provide them - reconditioning a 12 volt truck battery. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US region. Johnson Controls must have it's name on the battery in concern. Also I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a project out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are going over batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Sadly the report is not a real report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, and so on.
What I would be interested in is to know what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is relatively brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition a battery).
Count the number of times you bend and correct before it snaps. I have actually done this myself lot of times. Antimony fails well prior to calcium. The difference has to do with three times. If the maker used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be extremely surprised. The separators are extremely crucial parts.
You may like to ascertain if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That signifies overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically crucial (car battery reconditioning). I suspect you will discover the grids corroded away in locations and active material has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been disconnected for a long period of time. A sign of grid rust. I doubt you will discover more than an unimportant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i simply learnt that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will go into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have happened by now. If the smell of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work efficiently, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize cleansed water - in an emergency, tap water. Hey there How much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you guys ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (clearly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of explore it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply believed it interesting and wan na show you guys. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised various suspensions based on both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixtures simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does calm down at the bottom, the technique is to include it simply after the battery charged up till it gassing intensely, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Giving it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active surface location, minimizing internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it only can be use when, but hey, it's much better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a number of exclusive emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - high frequency battery reconditioning.
I had a various objective - how do you recondition a dead car battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even harmful to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount specified by the poster needs to have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with cover, add 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I as soon as make a little battery out of small 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being utilized, but the outcome is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates seems to be worn down rather quick. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is lowered. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would indicates quicker charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find cheap source of it yet. For this reason the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also attempted utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (how to recondition a battery). It has the greatest short peak discharge existing.