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You might like to share the name of the battery, type and search for a serial number, anything to assist determine it. Then we might attempt to talk with the maker, discover out precisely what type of innovation. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not offer information of the type of water you used.
I would guess your battery has lost many of the active material from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Try checking the acid SG. Car batteries like to be charged at simply a couple of amps, for a few days after being run down.
( If you think in fairies, try some type of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not exactly sure the specific model, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the car. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for trickle charging, it does manage the current output to the requirements of the battery.
I think it to be a very soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've found out that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Vehicle Components as their brand name. They presently offer a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I have actually now check out that various producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Auto Components due to the fact that nobody mfg can produce adequate to provide them - diy recondition car battery. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in question. Also I discovered they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a project out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is precisely why we are talking about batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would have an interest in is to know what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (recondition your old battery).
Count the variety of times you flex and correct prior to it snaps. I have done this myself lots of times. Antimony stops working well prior to calcium. The difference has to do with three times. If the maker utilized diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be extremely surprised. The separators are really crucial parts.
You may like to determine if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That signifies overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically important (how to recondition a battery). I suspect you will discover the grids rusted away in locations and active material has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been detached for a long time. An indication of grid deterioration. I question you will discover more than an insignificant quantity of sulfate. I live in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i just discovered that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will go into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is released as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually occurred by now. If the smell of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize cleansed water - in an emergency, tap water. Hey there Just how much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (certainly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of explore it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Simply believed it interesting and wan na share with you guys. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised various suspensions based upon both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixes just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does calm down at the bottom, the technique is to add it simply after the battery charged up till it gassing intensely, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, keeping the suspension. Offering it a possibility convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active area, reducing internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it just can be usage as soon as, but hey, it's much better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a number of exclusive emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. Many did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - recondition your old battery.
I had a various objective - how do you recondition a dead car battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even damaging to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity stated by the poster should have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with lid, add 15 ml water, shake till liquified then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried sodium sulfate? I when make a small battery out of small 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when besides HSO4 being utilized, but the outcome is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates appears to be eroded quite quickly. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in complete charge-discharge cycle is reduced. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would implies faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover inexpensive source of it yet. Hence the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also attempted utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (how to recondition a dead battery). It has the greatest short peak discharge existing.
Table of Contents
How To Recondition A Car Battery
High Frequency Battery Reconditioning
What Is Battery Reconditioning