You may like to share the name of the battery, type and search for a serial number, anything to assist recognize it. Then we might try to talk to the maker, discover out precisely what kind of technology. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not provide information of the type of water you utilized.
I would think your battery has actually lost many of the active material from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Try examining the acid SG. Auto batteries like to be charged at simply a couple of amps, for a few days after being run down.
( If you think in fairies, try some sort of restoration.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Unsure the specific design, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the automobile. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for drip charging, it does manage the existing output to the requirements of the battery.
I believe it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. Actually you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've learnt that the Autocraft batteries are sold at Advance Automobile Components as their brand name. They currently offer a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I have actually now read that various makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Automobile Components because nobody mfg can produce sufficient to supply them - do i need to charge car battery after battery recondition. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States region. Johnson Controls should have it's name on the battery in question. Also I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I may make a project out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are going over batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a true report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, and so on.
What I would be interested in is to know what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is reasonably breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition a 12 volt battery).
Count the number of times you flex and correct the alignment of prior to it snaps. I have done this myself many times. Antimony stops working well prior to calcium. The distinction is about 3 times. If the producer used diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be very stunned. The separators are really crucial components.
You may like to ascertain if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously important (battery recondition). I presume you will discover the grids rusted away in locations and active material has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been detached for a long period of time. A sign of grid rust. I question you will find more than an insignificant amount of sulfate. I live in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i just discovered that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will go into option as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually happened by now. If the smell of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work efficiently, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize cleansed water - in an emergency situation, faucet water. Hi Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (obviously) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of exploring with it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Just thought it intriguing and wan na show you people. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised various suspensions based upon both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the trick is to add it simply after the battery charged up till it gassing intensely, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Providing it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active area, decreasing internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it only can be usage when, however hey, it's much better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a variety of proprietary emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. The majority of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - reconditioning car battery.
I had a various goal - how to recondition a dead battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even hazardous to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity stated by the poster needs to have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with cover, add 15 ml water, shake till liquified then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried sodium sulfate? I as soon as make a small battery out of small 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being utilized, but the outcome is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, also, the plates seems to be deteriorated quite quickly. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is decreased. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but also the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would indicates much faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover cheap source of it yet. For this reason the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise tried utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (what is in battery reconditioning solution). It has the highest brief peak discharge present.