You might like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find a serial number, anything to assist identify it. Then we might attempt to talk to the producer, discover exactly what kind of technology. Not all batteries are the same. You did not offer information of the type of water you used.
I would think your battery has lost many of the active product from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt checking the acid SG. Vehicle batteries like to be charged at simply a number of amps, for a couple of days after being diminished.
( If you believe in fairies, attempt some kind of rejuvenation.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Unsure the precise design, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the cars and truck. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for trickle charging, it does control the existing output to the requirements of the battery.
I think it to be a very soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually discovered that the Autocraft batteries are sold at Advance Car Components as their brand name. They currently sell a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I've now check out that various makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Automobile Components due to the fact that nobody mfg can produce enough to provide them - what is battery reconditioning. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in concern. Also I discovered out they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a job out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are going over batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Sadly the report is not a real report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, and so on.
What I would have an interest in is to know what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by ways of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is reasonably brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition any battery).
Count the variety of times you bend and align before it snaps. I have actually done this myself lot of times. Antimony fails well before calcium. The distinction has to do with three times. If the producer utilized diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be really surprised. The separators are really essential parts.
You might like to determine if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That signifies overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously essential (how do you recondition a dead battery). I believe you will find the grids corroded away in places and active product has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been detached for a long period of time. A sign of grid corrosion. I doubt you will discover more than an unimportant quantity of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply discovered that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to remedy this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will go into option as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have happened by now. If the odor of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work efficiently, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize purified water - in an emergency, tap water. Hi How much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (certainly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of exploring with it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Just thought it interesting and wan na show you men. Afdhal - Yes. I made up numerous suspensions based on both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the technique is to add it simply after the battery charged up till it gassing vigorously, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Giving it a possibility convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, concealing the plates, increasing active area, decreasing internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it only can be use when, but hey, it's better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a number of proprietary emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to restore a car battery.
I had a different objective - reconditioning battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even harmful to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity specified by the poster needs to have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with lid, include 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried sodium sulfate? I once make a small battery out of little 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being used, however the outcome is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates seems to be eroded quite quick. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in complete charge-discharge cycle is reduced. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but also the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would suggests faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover inexpensive source of it yet. For this reason the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (test and recondition car battery). It has the highest brief peak discharge existing.