You may like to share the name of the battery, type and search for a serial number, anything to help identify it. Then we could attempt to talk to the manufacturer, find out precisely what type of technology. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not provide information of the type of water you utilized.
I would guess your battery has lost the majority of the active product from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt inspecting the acid SG. Vehicle batteries like to be charged at just a couple of amps, for a couple of days after being run down.
( If you believe in fairies, try some type of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not sure the precise design, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the cars and truck. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for trickle charging, it does manage the present output to the requirements of the battery.
I believe it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually learnt that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Vehicle Parts as their brand. They currently offer a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I have actually now read that numerous makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Automobile Parts because nobody mfg can produce enough to supply them - recondition old battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US area. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in concern. Likewise I discovered they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I may make a job out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is precisely why we are discussing batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Sadly the report is not a true report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would be interested in is to know what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition a wore out battery).
Count the variety of times you bend and straighten prior to it snaps. I have done this myself sometimes. Antimony fails well prior to calcium. The distinction has to do with 3 times. If the producer used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be extremely surprised. The separators are extremely crucial elements.
You may like to determine if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically important (how do you recondition a dead battery). I suspect you will find the grids corroded away in places and active product has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been detached for a very long time. An indication of grid deterioration. I question you will discover more than an irrelevant quantity of sulfate. I live in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply discovered that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to remedy this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will go into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is given off as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have happened by now. If the odor of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work efficiently, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize cleansed water - in an emergency, tap water. Hello Just how much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (obviously) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of explore it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply believed it interesting and wan na show you guys. Afdhal - Yes. I made up different suspensions based on both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixes just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does calm down at the bottom, the trick is to add it just after the battery charged up until it gassing strongly, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Giving it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering up the plates, increasing active area, lowering internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it only can be use once, but hey, it's better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a variety of proprietary emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - automotive battery reconditioning.
I had a various goal - what is in battery reconditioning solution. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even damaging to battery- the recommended level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount specified by the poster must have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with lid, add 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I when make a little battery out of little 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being used, however the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates appears to be worn down quite quickly. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is lowered. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but also the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would suggests much faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover cheap source of it yet. For this reason the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also tried utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (battery reconditioning com). It has the greatest brief peak discharge present.