You might like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find a serial number, anything to assist recognize it. Then we might try to speak with the producer, discover precisely what type of innovation. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not give information of the type of water you utilized.
I would think your battery has lost many of the active material from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt inspecting the acid SG. Car batteries like to be charged at just a couple of amps, for a few days after being diminished.
( If you believe in fairies, attempt some kind of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not sure the exact model, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the car. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for trickle charging, it does control the present output to the requirements of the battery.
I think it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. Actually you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually found out that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Automobile Parts as their brand. They presently sell a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I've now check out that numerous makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Automobile Parts since no one mfg can produce enough to provide them - how do you recondition a dead car battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States region. Johnson Controls should have it's name on the battery in question. Likewise I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I might make a task out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is precisely why we are discussing batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Sadly the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would be interested in is to know what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by ways of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is reasonably fragile. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (auto battery reconditioning).
Count the number of times you flex and correct the alignment of prior to it snaps. I have done this myself lot of times. Antimony fails well prior to calcium. The distinction has to do with 3 times. If the maker used diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be very stunned. The separators are extremely essential elements.
You might like to determine if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously important (how to restore a dead battery car). I presume you will discover the grids corroded away in places and active material has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been disconnected for a long time. A sign of grid rust. I doubt you will discover more than an irrelevant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply discovered that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will enter into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have happened by now. If the smell of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize purified water - in an emergency, tap water. Hi Just how much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (clearly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of try out it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Simply thought it intriguing and wan na show you people. Afdhal - Yes. I made up numerous suspensions based upon both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle at the bottom, the trick is to add it simply after the battery charged up until it gassing intensely, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Giving it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active surface location, lowering internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it just can be usage once, but hey, it's much better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a variety of exclusive emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. A lot of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to recondition a dead battery.
I had a different goal - how do you recondition a car battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete waste of time & is even hazardous to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity mentioned by the poster should have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with lid, include 15 ml water, shake till liquified then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted sodium sulfate? I as soon as make a little battery out of little 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being utilized, but the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, also, the plates seems to be eroded rather quick. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is lowered. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but also the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would suggests faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover low-cost source of it yet. Hence the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also tried utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (automotive battery reconditioning). It has the highest brief peak discharge present.