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You might like to share the name of the battery, type and search for an identification number, anything to assist determine it. Then we might attempt to speak to the manufacturer, discover out exactly what type of innovation. Not all batteries are the same. You did not provide details of the type of water you utilized.
I would guess your battery has lost many of the active material from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt examining the acid SG. Car batteries like to be charged at just a number of amps, for a couple of days after being run down.
( If you believe in fairies, attempt some type of rejuvenation.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Uncertain the specific design, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the automobile. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for trickle charging, it does control the current output to the requirements of the battery.
I believe it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually discovered that the Autocraft batteries are offered at Advance Auto Components as their brand name. They currently sell a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I've now read that various makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Auto Parts because no one mfg can produce adequate to provide them - do i need to charge car battery after battery recondition. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US area. Johnson Controls should have it's name on the battery in concern. Also I discovered out they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a job out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are going over batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a true report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, etc.
What I would be interested in is to know what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is relatively brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (battery reconditioning com).
Count the number of times you flex and correct before it snaps. I have done this myself lot of times. Antimony stops working well prior to calcium. The difference is about three times. If the manufacturer used diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be extremely stunned. The separators are really important components.
You may like to establish if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That signifies overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously important (recondition 12 volt battery). I presume you will discover the grids corroded away in locations and active product has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been detached for a very long time. A sign of grid deterioration. I doubt you will find more than an insignificant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i just learnt that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to remedy this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will enter into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is offered off as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually taken place by now. If the smell of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather use purified water - in an emergency situation, tap water. Hey there Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (certainly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of try out it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Just thought it fascinating and wan na share with you people. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised various suspensions based on both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixes just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the technique is to include it simply after the battery charged up until it gassing vigorously, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Offering it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active area, lowering internal impedance.
Yup, the disadvantage of it is that it just can be usage as soon as, however hey, it's better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a number of exclusive emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. Many did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - battery reconditioning.
I had a various objective - how to restore a dead battery car. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total wild-goose chase & is even harmful to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount mentioned by the poster should have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a container with lid, add 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried salt sulfate? I as soon as make a little battery out of little 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Naturally it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being utilized, however the result is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, also, the plates seems to be eroded quite quickly. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in full charge-discharge cycle is decreased. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would implies faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover low-cost source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also tried utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (how to recondition a dead car battery). It has the highest short peak discharge present.
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How Do You Recondition A Battery
How To Recondition A 12 Volt Battery