You might like to share the name of the battery, type and look for a serial number, anything to help recognize it. Then we could try to talk with the manufacturer, discover precisely what sort of innovation. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not give information of the kind of water you used.
I would think your battery has lost the majority of the active material from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt examining the acid SG. Automobile batteries like to be charged at just a couple of amps, for a couple of days after being run down.
( If you think in fairies, try some kind of rejuvenation.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Uncertain the specific model, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the automobile. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for drip charging, it does control the current output to the needs of the battery.
I believe it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually discovered that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Auto Parts as their brand name. They currently sell a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I've now check out that various manufacturers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Auto Parts due to the fact that nobody mfg can produce enough to supply them - recondition a car battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in concern. Likewise I found out they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I might make a project out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are discussing batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a true report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, and so on.
What I would have an interest in is to know what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly fragile. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to restore a dead battery car).
Count the variety of times you bend and align before it snaps. I have done this myself lots of times. Antimony stops working well before calcium. The distinction is about 3 times. If the maker used diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be extremely stunned. The separators are extremely crucial parts.
You may like to establish if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically essential (recondition 12 volt battery). I think you will discover the grids rusted away in locations and active material has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been detached for a long time. An indication of grid deterioration. I doubt you will find more than an irrelevant amount of sulfate. I live in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply discovered that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to remedy this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will go into option as lead chloride. Then the chloride is released as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually occurred by now. If the odor of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather use cleansed water - in an emergency situation, faucet water. Hi How much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you guys ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (certainly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of try out it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply thought it fascinating and wan na show you guys. Afdhal - Yes. I made up numerous suspensions based on both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixes just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does calm down at the bottom, the trick is to add it simply after the battery charged up until it gassing strongly, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Providing it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering up the plates, increasing active area, minimizing internal impedance.
Yup, the disadvantage of it is that it only can be usage when, but hey, it's much better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a variety of exclusive emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - reconditioning old battery.
I had a various objective - how to recondition a car battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete wild-goose chase & is even hazardous to battery- the recommended level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount stated by the poster should have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with lid, add 15 ml water, shake till liquified then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried salt sulfate? I once make a small battery out of little 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being used, however the outcome is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, also, the plates seems to be worn down quite quick. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in complete charge-discharge cycle is minimized. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would implies faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find cheap source of it yet. Hence the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (how to recondition a battery at home). It has the highest brief peak discharge existing.