You may like to share the name of the battery, type and look for a serial number, anything to assist recognize it. Then we might try to talk to the producer, discover exactly what type of technology. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not give information of the type of water you utilized.
I would guess your battery has lost many of the active product from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt examining the acid SG. Car batteries like to be charged at simply a number of amps, for a few days after being diminished.
( If you think in fairies, try some type of rejuvenation.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not sure the precise model, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the vehicle. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for trickle charging, it does control the present output to the requirements of the battery.
I think it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually discovered that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Car Parts as their brand name. They presently offer a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I've now check out that numerous producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Automobile Parts due to the fact that no one mfg can produce adequate to supply them - how to recondition a wore out battery. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States region. Johnson Controls ought to have it's name on the battery in question. Also I found out they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I might make a project out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is precisely why we are discussing batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Regrettably the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would be interested in is to know what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is reasonably fragile. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (recondition old battery).
Count the variety of times you flex and straighten before it snaps. I have done this myself sometimes. Antimony stops working well before calcium. The distinction has to do with 3 times. If the producer utilized diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be very stunned. The separators are really essential parts.
You may like to establish if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That is a sign of overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically crucial (high frequency battery reconditioning). I suspect you will find the grids corroded away in places and active product has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been disconnected for a long time. An indication of grid deterioration. I doubt you will discover more than an unimportant quantity of sulfate. I live in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i just discovered out that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will enter into option as lead chloride. Then the chloride is emitted as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually occurred by now. If the odor of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will bring on working. That is all there is to it. Rather use purified water - in an emergency situation, tap water. Hey there How much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you guys ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (obviously) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of experimenting with it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply believed it fascinating and wan na show you men. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised various suspensions based upon both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixtures just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the technique is to include it just after the battery charged up until it gassing intensely, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Giving it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering up the plates, increasing active surface location, minimizing internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it just can be use when, but hey, it's better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a variety of proprietary emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how do you recondition a dead battery.
I had a different objective - battery reconditioning. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even damaging to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount stated by the poster needs to have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with cover, add 15 ml water, shake till liquified then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried sodium sulfate? I once make a little battery out of small 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when besides HSO4 being used, however the outcome is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates seems to be eroded quite quickly. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in complete charge-discharge cycle is reduced. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but also the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would suggests much faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover cheap source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also tried utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (reconditioning car battery). It has the highest short peak discharge existing.