You may like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find an identification number, anything to assist identify it. Then we might attempt to speak to the manufacturer, find out exactly what kind of innovation. Not all batteries are the same. You did not give information of the type of water you used.
I would think your battery has actually lost the majority of the active material from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt inspecting the acid SG. Car batteries like to be charged at just a couple of amps, for a few days after being diminished.
( If you think in fairies, try some type of restoration.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not exactly sure the specific model, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the vehicle. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for drip charging, it does control the present output to the requirements of the battery.
I think it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. Actually you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually learnt that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Auto Components as their brand name. They presently offer a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I have actually now check out that numerous makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Automobile Parts since nobody mfg can produce adequate to provide them - high frequency battery reconditioning. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls must have it's name on the battery in concern. Likewise I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I might make a job out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are discussing batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Sadly the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would have an interest in is to understand what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition a battery at home).
Count the variety of times you flex and correct prior to it snaps. I have done this myself often times. Antimony fails well prior to calcium. The distinction has to do with 3 times. If the maker utilized diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be very shocked. The separators are very crucial parts.
You may like to establish if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That signifies overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously important (how to recondition a 12 volt battery). I think you will find the grids rusted away in locations and active material has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been detached for a very long time. An indication of grid rust. I doubt you will find more than an unimportant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply learnt that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will go into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have taken place by now. If the odor of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize purified water - in an emergency, faucet water. Hey there Just how much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (clearly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of try out it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply thought it interesting and wan na show you men. Afdhal - Yes. I made up various suspensions based on both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixtures just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle at the bottom, the technique is to add it just after the battery charged up till it gassing intensely, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Offering it a possibility convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active area, minimizing internal impedance.
Yup, the disadvantage of it is that it just can be usage once, but hey, it's better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a variety of exclusive emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - reconditioning battery.
I had a various goal - automotive battery reconditioning. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete waste of time & is even harmful to battery- the recommended level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity specified by the poster must have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a container with lid, add 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried sodium sulfate? I as soon as make a small battery out of small 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when besides HSO4 being utilized, but the outcome is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, also, the plates appears to be deteriorated rather quick. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in complete charge-discharge cycle is decreased. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but also the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would suggests quicker charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find cheap source of it yet. For this reason the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also attempted utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (do i need to charge car battery after battery recondition). It has the highest short peak discharge current.