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You may like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find an identification number, anything to assist recognize it. Then we might attempt to talk with the producer, discover exactly what sort of innovation. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not provide details of the type of water you used.
I would think your battery has lost the majority of the active product from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt checking the acid SG. Automobile batteries like to be charged at simply a number of amps, for a couple of days after being diminished.
( If you think in fairies, attempt some sort of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Unsure the specific model, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the automobile. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for trickle charging, it does manage the current output to the needs of the battery.
I believe it to be a very soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually learnt that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Car Parts as their brand. They presently offer a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I have actually now read that various manufacturers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Car Components due to the fact that no one mfg can produce adequate to provide them - how do you recondition a dead battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States region. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in concern. Likewise I found out they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I may make a project out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are talking about batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Regrettably the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, and so on.
What I would have an interest in is to understand what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by ways of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition a battery at home).
Count the number of times you flex and straighten prior to it snaps. I have actually done this myself numerous times. Antimony fails well before calcium. The distinction is about three times. If the producer utilized diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be extremely surprised. The separators are very essential components.
You might like to establish if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That signifies overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously crucial (recondition a battery). I presume you will find the grids rusted away in places and active product has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been disconnected for a very long time. A sign of grid corrosion. I doubt you will discover more than an unimportant quantity of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i simply found out that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to remedy this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will enter into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is released as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually happened by now. If the odor of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize cleansed water - in an emergency situation, tap water. Hello How much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (clearly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of experimenting with it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Just thought it interesting and wan na show you guys. Afdhal - Yes. I made up numerous suspensions based upon both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixes just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the technique is to include it simply after the battery charged up until it gassing strongly, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Providing it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, concealing the plates, increasing active area, decreasing internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it just can be usage once, however hey, it's better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a number of proprietary emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to recondition a car battery.
I had a different objective - recondition dead battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete wild-goose chase & is even harmful to battery- the recommended level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity mentioned by the poster should have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a container with cover, add 15 ml water, shake till liquified then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I once make a small battery out of small 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Naturally it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being used, but the outcome is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates seems to be worn down quite fast. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is minimized. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but also the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would indicates quicker charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find inexpensive source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise tried utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (materials needed to recondition car battery). It has the greatest short peak discharge present.
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How Do You Recondition A Battery
How To Recondition A 12 Volt Battery