You might like to share the name of the battery, type and look for an identification number, anything to help determine it. Then we could try to speak with the maker, discover exactly what sort of innovation. Not all batteries are the same. You did not provide information of the kind of water you utilized.
I would think your battery has lost the majority of the active product from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt checking the acid SG. Vehicle batteries like to be charged at just a number of amps, for a couple of days after being run down.
( If you think in fairies, try some kind of restoration.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not sure the specific design, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the cars and truck. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for drip charging, it does manage the existing output to the requirements of the battery.
I think it to be a very soft water treated with fluoride. Actually you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually found out that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Automobile Parts as their brand. They currently offer a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I've now check out that different producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Automobile Parts because no one mfg can produce sufficient to provide them - battery reconditioning com. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States region. Johnson Controls should have it's name on the battery in question. Likewise I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a task out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are discussing batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a real report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, and so on.
What I would have an interest in is to know what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by ways of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (is it okay to recondition a car battery with it still connected).
Count the number of times you bend and align prior to it snaps. I have actually done this myself sometimes. Antimony fails well prior to calcium. The difference has to do with 3 times. If the maker utilized diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be extremely stunned. The separators are very essential parts.
You might like to determine if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That is an indication of overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously crucial (how to recondition a battery at home). I believe you will find the grids rusted away in places and active product has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been disconnected for a long time. An indication of grid corrosion. I question you will discover more than an irrelevant amount of sulfate. I live in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply learnt that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to remedy this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will enter into option as lead chloride. Then the chloride is released as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually happened by now. If the odor of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work efficiently, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather use purified water - in an emergency, tap water. Hey there How much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (certainly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of exploring with it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Just believed it intriguing and wan na share with you men. Afdhal - Yes. I made up numerous suspensions based on both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixtures simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does calm down at the bottom, the technique is to include it just after the battery charged up till it gassing vigorously, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Providing it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering up the plates, increasing active area, reducing internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it only can be usage once, but hey, it's much better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a number of proprietary emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. The majority of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to recondition an old battery.
I had a various objective - do i need to charge car battery after battery recondition. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete wild-goose chase & is even damaging to battery- the recommended level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount stated by the poster needs to have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with lid, include 15 ml water, shake till liquified then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted sodium sulfate? I as soon as make a little battery out of little 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when besides HSO4 being utilized, however the outcome is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, also, the plates appears to be deteriorated rather fast. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in complete charge-discharge cycle is minimized. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would indicates faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find inexpensive source of it yet. Hence the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also attempted utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (how to recondition a 12v battery). It has the highest short peak discharge current.