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You may like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find an identification number, anything to help recognize it. Then we could try to talk with the manufacturer, discover precisely what sort of innovation. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not give information of the kind of water you utilized.
I would think your battery has actually lost most of the active product from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt examining the acid SG. Vehicle batteries like to be charged at just a number of amps, for a couple of days after being run down.
( If you think in fairies, try some sort of rejuvenation.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not exactly sure the precise model, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the cars and truck. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for trickle charging, it does control the current output to the requirements of the battery.
I believe it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. Actually you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually found out that the Autocraft batteries are sold at Advance Car Parts as their brand. They currently offer a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I've now check out that various makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Auto Parts because nobody mfg can produce adequate to provide them - reconditioning car battery. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US region. Johnson Controls must have it's name on the battery in concern. Likewise I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I might make a project out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are talking about batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Regrettably the report is not a real report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would be interested in is to understand what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by ways of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how do you recondition a car battery).
Count the variety of times you flex and correct the alignment of prior to it snaps. I have done this myself often times. Antimony fails well prior to calcium. The difference is about 3 times. If the producer utilized diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be really shocked. The separators are really crucial parts.
You might like to determine if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically crucial (is it okay to recondition a car battery with it still connected). I believe you will find the grids rusted away in locations and active material has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been detached for a very long time. A sign of grid corrosion. I question you will discover more than an insignificant quantity of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i simply learnt that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to remedy this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will go into option as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually happened by now. If the smell of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize purified water - in an emergency, tap water. Hey there Just how much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you guys ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (certainly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of explore it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Just believed it interesting and wan na share with you men. Afdhal - Yes. I made up numerous suspensions based upon both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does calm down at the bottom, the trick is to add it simply after the battery charged up until it gassing intensely, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, keeping the suspension. Providing it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, concealing the plates, increasing active area, lowering internal impedance.
Yup, the disadvantage of it is that it only can be use as soon as, but hey, it's better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a number of proprietary emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. A lot of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to reconditioning car battery.
I had a different objective - test and recondition car battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete wild-goose chase & is even harmful to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity specified by the poster needs to have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with lid, include 15 ml water, shake till liquified then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I as soon as make a little battery out of small 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Naturally it gets weaker when besides HSO4 being utilized, but the result is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, also, the plates appears to be deteriorated rather quick. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in full charge-discharge cycle is lowered. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however also the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would implies faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover cheap source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also tried using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (how to restore a car battery). It has the highest short peak discharge existing.
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How Do You Recondition A Battery
How To Recondition A 12 Volt Battery