You might like to share the name of the battery, type and search for a serial number, anything to help identify it. Then we might try to talk with the manufacturer, discover out exactly what kind of innovation. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not give details of the kind of water you used.
I would think your battery has actually lost most of the active product from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Try inspecting the acid SG. Vehicle batteries like to be charged at simply a number of amps, for a couple of days after being diminished.
( If you think in fairies, attempt some type of rejuvenation.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not sure the specific model, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the car. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for drip charging, it does control the existing output to the needs of the battery.
I believe it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. Actually you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually discovered that the Autocraft batteries are offered at Advance Vehicle Components as their brand. They presently offer a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I have actually now read that numerous producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Vehicle Parts due to the fact that no one mfg can produce sufficient to supply them - reconditioning a 12 volt truck battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US area. Johnson Controls should have it's name on the battery in concern. Also I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I may make a task out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are talking about batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would have an interest in is to know what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is relatively breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (battery recondition).
Count the number of times you flex and correct the alignment of before it snaps. I have actually done this myself lots of times. Antimony stops working well prior to calcium. The difference is about 3 times. If the manufacturer utilized diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be extremely stunned. The separators are really important parts.
You might like to establish if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That is an indication of overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously crucial (how to recondition a wore out battery). I think you will discover the grids corroded away in places and active material has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been detached for a long time. An indication of grid rust. I question you will find more than an irrelevant quantity of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i simply learnt that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will enter into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have taken place by now. If the odor of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather use cleansed water - in an emergency, faucet water. Hey there How much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (certainly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of exploring with it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Simply believed it interesting and wan na show you men. Afdhal - Yes. I made up different suspensions based on both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does calm down at the bottom, the trick is to add it simply after the battery charged up until it gassing strongly, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, keeping the suspension. Providing it a possibility convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, concealing the plates, increasing active area, lowering internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it just can be use as soon as, however hey, it's better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a number of exclusive emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. The majority of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how do you recondition a dead car battery.
I had a various goal - how to recondition a 12v battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete wild-goose chase & is even damaging to battery- the recommended level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount mentioned by the poster must have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a container with cover, include 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I as soon as make a small battery out of little 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Naturally it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being utilized, but the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates appears to be deteriorated quite fast. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is reduced. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would implies faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find inexpensive source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise tried using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (recondition old battery). It has the greatest short peak discharge existing.