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You may like to share the name of the battery, type and look for a serial number, anything to help recognize it. Then we might attempt to talk to the maker, discover exactly what type of technology. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not give information of the kind of water you used.
I would guess your battery has actually lost most of the active material from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt checking the acid SG. Car batteries like to be charged at simply a number of amps, for a couple of days after being diminished.
( If you believe in fairies, attempt some kind of rejuvenation.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Unsure the precise model, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the vehicle. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for trickle charging, it does manage the existing output to the requirements of the battery.
I think it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. Actually you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually discovered out that the Autocraft batteries are offered at Advance Auto Parts as their brand. They currently offer a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I have actually now check out that various makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Car Components due to the fact that nobody mfg can produce adequate to supply them - diy recondition car battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in question. Also I discovered they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a project out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is precisely why we are talking about batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a real report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, etc.
What I would be interested in is to know what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by ways of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (car battery reconditioning).
Count the number of times you flex and straighten prior to it snaps. I have actually done this myself often times. Antimony fails well before calcium. The difference has to do with three times. If the maker used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be very surprised. The separators are very crucial elements.
You might like to ascertain if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That is a sign of overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically crucial (battery reconditioning com). I believe you will find the grids corroded away in places and active material has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been disconnected for a long period of time. An indication of grid deterioration. I doubt you will find more than an irrelevant quantity of sulfate. I live in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply discovered out that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will go into option as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually occurred by now. If the smell of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work efficiently, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize purified water - in an emergency, faucet water. Hi How much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (obviously) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of explore it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply believed it fascinating and wan na share with you people. Afdhal - Yes. I made up various suspensions based upon both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does calm down at the bottom, the trick is to include it just after the battery charged up till it gassing vigorously, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, keeping the suspension. Giving it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active surface area, lowering internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it just can be use when, however hey, it's better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a number of proprietary emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. Many did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to recondition a car battery.
I had a various objective - high frequency battery reconditioning. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even hazardous to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount mentioned by the poster should have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with lid, add 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I as soon as make a little battery out of little 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being utilized, but the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, also, the plates appears to be eroded quite quickly. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is lowered. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would indicates faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find inexpensive source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (battery reconditioning com). It has the greatest brief peak discharge existing.
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