You may like to share the name of the battery, type and look for a serial number, anything to assist determine it. Then we might attempt to talk with the manufacturer, discover precisely what type of innovation. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not offer information of the kind of water you utilized.
I would think your battery has lost most of the active product from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt checking the acid SG. Automobile batteries like to be charged at simply a number of amps, for a couple of days after being run down.
( If you think in fairies, attempt some kind of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Uncertain the specific design, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the automobile. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for trickle charging, it does control the existing output to the requirements of the battery.
I believe it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. Actually you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually learnt that the Autocraft batteries are sold at Advance Automobile Components as their brand. They currently offer a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I've now read that various producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Vehicle Parts because nobody mfg can produce enough to provide them - recondition 12 volt battery. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States region. Johnson Controls should have it's name on the battery in concern. Also I discovered they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I might make a task out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are talking about batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would have an interest in is to know what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by ways of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly fragile. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (recondition a car battery).
Count the number of times you bend and correct prior to it snaps. I have actually done this myself many times. Antimony fails well prior to calcium. The distinction has to do with three times. If the manufacturer used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be really stunned. The separators are extremely important components.
You might like to determine if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That is a sign of overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously important (test and recondition car battery). I think you will find the grids corroded away in places and active material has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been disconnected for a long period of time. An indication of grid deterioration. I question you will find more than an irrelevant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i just found out that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will enter into option as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have taken place by now. If the smell of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize cleansed water - in an emergency, faucet water. Hey there Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (undoubtedly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of explore it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Simply believed it fascinating and wan na show you men. Afdhal - Yes. I made up different suspensions based upon both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixtures simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle at the bottom, the trick is to include it just after the battery charged up until it gassing vigorously, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Giving it a possibility convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering up the plates, increasing active surface location, reducing internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it only can be use when, however hey, it's better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a variety of exclusive emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - 12 volt battery reconditioning.
I had a various objective - recondition dead battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete waste of time & is even damaging to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity mentioned by the poster must have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with lid, add 15 ml water, shake till liquified then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted sodium sulfate? I once make a small battery out of little 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Naturally it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being utilized, but the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates seems to be eroded rather quick. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in complete charge-discharge cycle is decreased. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however also the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would indicates faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover cheap source of it yet. Hence the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (high frequency battery reconditioning). It has the greatest brief peak discharge existing.