You might like to share the name of the battery, type and look for an identification number, anything to help determine it. Then we might attempt to speak to the manufacturer, find out precisely what kind of innovation. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not give details of the kind of water you used.
I would guess your battery has lost the majority of the active product from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt examining the acid SG. Car batteries like to be charged at just a number of amps, for a couple of days after being run down.
( If you believe in fairies, try some sort of rejuvenation.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not sure the specific design, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the cars and truck. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for drip charging, it does control the current output to the needs of the battery.
I believe it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually learnt that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Automobile Parts as their brand name. They presently offer a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I have actually now check out that numerous producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Automobile Components since no one mfg can produce adequate to supply them - recondition car battery for sale. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in concern. Also I discovered they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a project out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are going over batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Sadly the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, etc.
What I would be interested in is to understand what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly fragile. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how do you recondition a dead car battery).
Count the variety of times you flex and correct the alignment of before it snaps. I have actually done this myself lot of times. Antimony fails well prior to calcium. The distinction has to do with three times. If the manufacturer utilized diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be really stunned. The separators are very important components.
You may like to determine if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically important (reconditioning a battery). I presume you will discover the grids rusted away in places and active material has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been disconnected for a very long time. An indication of grid rust. I question you will find more than an insignificant quantity of sulfate. I live in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply learnt that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will go into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is emitted as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually happened by now. If the smell of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize cleansed water - in an emergency situation, faucet water. Hey there Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you guys ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (clearly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of try out it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Simply believed it fascinating and wan na share with you men. Afdhal - Yes. I made up different suspensions based on both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixes just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle at the bottom, the trick is to add it simply after the battery charged up until it gassing strongly, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Offering it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active area, decreasing internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it just can be usage as soon as, but hey, it's much better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a variety of exclusive emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - automotive battery reconditioning.
I had a various goal - battery reconditioning com. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even damaging to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount specified by the poster needs to have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with cover, add 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted sodium sulfate? I once make a little battery out of little 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Naturally it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being used, but the result is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, also, the plates appears to be worn down rather quickly. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in full charge-discharge cycle is reduced. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would implies much faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find cheap source of it yet. For this reason the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise tried using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (recondition a car battery). It has the greatest short peak discharge present.