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You might like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find an identification number, anything to help recognize it. Then we might try to speak to the maker, discover out precisely what sort of innovation. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not provide information of the kind of water you used.
I would think your battery has actually lost most of the active material from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt examining the acid SG. Car batteries like to be charged at just a couple of amps, for a few days after being run down.
( If you think in fairies, try some kind of restoration.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Unsure the precise design, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the cars and truck. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for trickle charging, it does control the present output to the needs of the battery.
I think it to be a very soft water treated with fluoride. Actually you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've discovered that the Autocraft batteries are offered at Advance Car Parts as their brand. They currently sell a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I have actually now check out that various producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Car Components because nobody mfg can produce sufficient to supply them - recondition a battery. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States region. Johnson Controls must have it's name on the battery in question. Likewise I discovered out they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I might make a project out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are going over batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Regrettably the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, and so on.
What I would be interested in is to understand what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by ways of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition any battery).
Count the number of times you bend and straighten before it snaps. I have actually done this myself lots of times. Antimony fails well before calcium. The distinction is about 3 times. If the maker utilized diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be really shocked. The separators are extremely essential elements.
You might like to ascertain if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically crucial (battery reconditioning com). I suspect you will discover the grids rusted away in locations and active material has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been disconnected for a long period of time. A sign of grid deterioration. I doubt you will find more than an unimportant quantity of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i just discovered that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will go into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is released as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually occurred by now. If the odor of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather use cleansed water - in an emergency situation, faucet water. Hey there How much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (undoubtedly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of experimenting with it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply thought it interesting and wan na share with you men. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised numerous suspensions based on both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does calm down at the bottom, the trick is to include it simply after the battery charged up until it gassing intensely, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Giving it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, concealing the plates, increasing active area, lowering internal impedance.
Yup, the disadvantage of it is that it just can be usage once, but hey, it's better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a number of exclusive emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. The majority of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - battery reconditioning.
I had a different objective - recondition dead battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete waste of time & is even hazardous to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount stated by the poster should have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with lid, add 15 ml water, shake till liquified then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried sodium sulfate? I when make a small battery out of small 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being utilized, however the outcome is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, also, the plates appears to be deteriorated quite quick. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is decreased. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but also the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would implies quicker charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find cheap source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (how to recondition a dead car battery). It has the highest short peak discharge current.
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