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You may like to share the name of the battery, type and search for a serial number, anything to help recognize it. Then we might try to talk to the producer, discover exactly what kind of innovation. Not all batteries are the same. You did not provide information of the type of water you used.
I would think your battery has lost the majority of the active product from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Try checking the acid SG. Automobile batteries like to be charged at simply a number of amps, for a few days after being diminished.
( If you think in fairies, try some kind of restoration.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Uncertain the precise model, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the car. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for drip charging, it does manage the current output to the needs of the battery.
I think it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've found out that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Car Parts as their brand. They currently sell a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I have actually now check out that numerous manufacturers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Car Components because no one mfg can produce enough to supply them - how to recondition a battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States region. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in question. Likewise I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I might make a task out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are talking about batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Regrettably the report is not a real report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would have an interest in is to understand what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is relatively breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (automotive battery reconditioning).
Count the number of times you bend and correct the alignment of prior to it snaps. I have actually done this myself often times. Antimony fails well prior to calcium. The distinction has to do with 3 times. If the maker used diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be extremely shocked. The separators are extremely important elements.
You might like to establish if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically crucial (reconditioning old battery). I think you will find the grids corroded away in places and active material has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been disconnected for a long time. An indication of grid rust. I doubt you will find more than an unimportant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i just discovered out that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to remedy this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will go into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually occurred by now. If the smell of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather use cleansed water - in an emergency situation, tap water. Hello Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you guys ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (undoubtedly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of explore it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply believed it interesting and wan na show you guys. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised different suspensions based on both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixtures just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the trick is to add it simply after the battery charged up till it gassing vigorously, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Giving it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering up the plates, increasing active area, lowering internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it just can be usage when, but hey, it's much better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a number of proprietary emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. The majority of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - automotive battery reconditioning.
I had a different goal - recondition a car battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even damaging to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount stated by the poster must have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with cover, add 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted sodium sulfate? I when make a little battery out of small 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Naturally it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being used, but the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates seems to be deteriorated rather fast. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is decreased. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would suggests faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover low-cost source of it yet. For this reason the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also attempted utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (recondition battery guide). It has the greatest brief peak discharge present.
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