You may like to share the name of the battery, type and search for an identification number, anything to assist determine it. Then we could attempt to talk to the maker, learn precisely what kind of innovation. Not all batteries are the same. You did not provide information of the kind of water you utilized.
I would think your battery has actually lost the majority of the active material from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Try examining the acid SG. Car batteries like to be charged at simply a couple of amps, for a couple of days after being run down.
( If you think in fairies, try some type of rejuvenation.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not sure the exact design, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the cars and truck. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for trickle charging, it does control the current output to the requirements of the battery.
I believe it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. Actually you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually discovered that the Autocraft batteries are offered at Advance Auto Parts as their brand. They presently sell a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I have actually now check out that various producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Car Parts because nobody mfg can produce sufficient to provide them - battery recondition. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in question. Likewise I discovered out they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I might make a task out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are discussing batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Regrettably the report is not a real report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, and so on.
What I would be interested in is to know what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is relatively breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (recondition a battery).
Count the variety of times you bend and align before it snaps. I have done this myself lot of times. Antimony fails well before calcium. The difference has to do with three times. If the manufacturer used diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be very surprised. The separators are very crucial components.
You might like to establish if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That is an indication of overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically essential (reconditioning car battery). I suspect you will discover the grids rusted away in places and active product has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been disconnected for a very long time. An indication of grid corrosion. I question you will discover more than an irrelevant quantity of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply discovered that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will enter into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have taken place by now. If the odor of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will bring on working. That is all there is to it. Rather use purified water - in an emergency, tap water. Hello How much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (undoubtedly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of explore it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Simply thought it intriguing and wan na share with you men. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised various suspensions based upon both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does calm down at the bottom, the technique is to add it just after the battery charged up till it gassing intensely, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Providing it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active area, reducing internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it only can be use once, but hey, it's much better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a variety of exclusive emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. A lot of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - recondition dead battery.
I had a different objective - how do you recondition a car battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even harmful to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount stated by the poster must have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with cover, add 15 ml water, shake till liquified then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I as soon as make a little battery out of small 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being utilized, but the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates seems to be worn down quite quick. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is reduced. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but also the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would suggests quicker charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover low-cost source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also attempted utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (auto battery reconditioning). It has the greatest short peak discharge existing.