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You might like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find a serial number, anything to help identify it. Then we might attempt to speak to the maker, discover precisely what type of innovation. Not all batteries are the same. You did not provide information of the kind of water you utilized.
I would think your battery has actually lost the majority of the active material from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Try checking the acid SG. Automobile batteries like to be charged at simply a couple of amps, for a few days after being run down.
( If you think in fairies, try some type of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not exactly sure the precise design, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the automobile. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for trickle charging, it does control the existing output to the requirements of the battery.
I believe it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually discovered that the Autocraft batteries are sold at Advance Car Parts as their brand. They presently offer a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I've now check out that various producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Vehicle Parts because nobody mfg can produce sufficient to provide them - how to restore a car battery. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls must have it's name on the battery in concern. Also I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I might make a project out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are talking about batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Regrettably the report is not a true report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, and so on.
What I would be interested in is to know what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is relatively brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how do you recondition a dead battery).
Count the number of times you bend and correct the alignment of before it snaps. I have done this myself lot of times. Antimony stops working well before calcium. The distinction is about three times. If the maker used diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be very shocked. The separators are extremely crucial components.
You might like to establish if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically important (how to recondition an old battery). I think you will find the grids corroded away in places and active material has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been detached for a long period of time. An indication of grid rust. I doubt you will discover more than an irrelevant quantity of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply learnt that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will go into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is emitted as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually happened by now. If the smell of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work efficiently, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather use purified water - in an emergency, faucet water. Hey there Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (certainly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of explore it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Just thought it fascinating and wan na show you people. Afdhal - Yes. I made up various suspensions based upon both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixes just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle at the bottom, the trick is to add it just after the battery charged up till it gassing strongly, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Providing it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering up the plates, increasing active area, decreasing internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it only can be usage as soon as, however hey, it's better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a number of exclusive emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. The majority of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to recondition a 12 volt battery.
I had a various goal - battery reconditioning equipment. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even damaging to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity stated by the poster must have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with lid, include 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried sodium sulfate? I as soon as make a small battery out of little 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being used, however the outcome is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates seems to be eroded rather quick. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is minimized. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would implies quicker charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover inexpensive source of it yet. Hence the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also tried utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (how to recondition a 12v battery). It has the highest brief peak discharge current.
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