You may like to share the name of the battery, type and look for a serial number, anything to assist identify it. Then we might attempt to speak with the producer, learn precisely what sort of technology. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not provide information of the kind of water you utilized.
I would guess your battery has actually lost the majority of the active material from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt checking the acid SG. Car batteries like to be charged at simply a couple of amps, for a couple of days after being run down.
( If you believe in fairies, try some type of restoration.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not sure the exact design, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the automobile. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for trickle charging, it does control the present output to the requirements of the battery.
I believe it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually discovered out that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Vehicle Parts as their brand. They presently offer a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I have actually now read that different producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Auto Parts due to the fact that no one mfg can produce enough to supply them - reconditioning battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US region. Johnson Controls ought to have it's name on the battery in question. Also I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a task out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are discussing batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a true report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would have an interest in is to know what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is relatively brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition a wore out battery).
Count the number of times you bend and straighten before it snaps. I have done this myself often times. Antimony fails well before calcium. The difference has to do with three times. If the maker used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be really shocked. The separators are really crucial parts.
You may like to determine if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That is a sign of overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously crucial (high frequency battery reconditioning). I presume you will discover the grids corroded away in locations and active product has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been detached for a long time. A sign of grid deterioration. I question you will find more than an irrelevant quantity of sulfate. I live in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i just learnt that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will enter into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is provided off as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have happened by now. If the odor of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will bring on working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize purified water - in an emergency, faucet water. Hello How much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (certainly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of explore it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Just thought it intriguing and wan na share with you men. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised numerous suspensions based upon both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixes just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does calm down at the bottom, the technique is to add it simply after the battery charged up until it gassing vigorously, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Providing it a possibility convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering up the plates, increasing active area, decreasing internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it only can be usage once, however hey, it's much better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a number of exclusive emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. The majority of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - recondition a car battery.
I had a different goal - test and recondition car battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete wild-goose chase & is even harmful to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount mentioned by the poster must have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with cover, add 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I as soon as make a small battery out of small 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Naturally it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being used, but the result is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, also, the plates seems to be eroded quite quick. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in complete charge-discharge cycle is lowered. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but also the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would indicates quicker charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover low-cost source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise tried utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (how to recondition a 12 volt battery). It has the greatest short peak discharge existing.